Mumbai is not an easy and relaxing city to visit and is not
exactly filled with typical tourist destinations. But as a city it offers rich
cultural, gastronomic, and off beat experiences and these are a few things you
should definitely do to really get an inkling of this amazing city and to soak
up all the sights and the sounds the city has to offer (please bear with the
wordy post; I tried to cram in as much information as possible J )
1. Ride a local train
Life line of Mumbai
The first thing you notice about Mumbai is
how unbelievably vast and how unbelievably crowded Mumbai is. The best and the
fastest possible way to travel in the city, is to use the extremely well
connected local train system. Not only is it the fastest mode of transport but
it will also serve as an amuse bouche for your Mumbai journey tingling your
senses for more of this addictive city. You can feel the electric Mumbai buzz
and forge friendships that might last a lifetime!
For first timers I would suggest making
your maiden voyage during off hours (between 10 AM and 4 PM). Or alternatively
you can try to beat the crowd by traveling in opposite direction of the crowd
by travelling away from CST or Churchgate in mornings and towards them in the
evenings! There is an exclusive
compartment for ladies and it is quite safe to travel in local trains quite
late into the night J
Psst solo women travelers; Mumbai is quite
safe and I have taken the Thane train from CST alone even at 10.30 PM without
feeling wee bit uncomfortable though being alert and being in crowded places is
advised. You could also hop in the general compartment if the ladies
compartment is scarcely occupied during late hours.
2.
Open
deck bus ride through Marine Drive
Colourful night life!
City Lights!
Maharashtra Tourism (MTDC) conducts a one hour open deck bus tour on
weekend evenings through the heart of the city starting from the Gateway of
India making its way through some iconic heritage buildings scattered across
South Mumbai and back to the Gateway again. The cool sea breeze and the
twinkling lights are a sure shot recipe for a perfect romantic evening.
Tickets are available at the MTDC counter at Gateway of India (Tel.No. 022
2284 1877)
Timings – 7 PM to 8 PM and 8.15 PM to 9.15 PM every Saturday and Sunday
Unfortunately this service is not available during monsoon but we found out
another even better alternative. Just take the public bus (BEST) route no. 108
from CST station depot to Kamala Nehru Park in Malabar Hill for a spectacular
drive through the vintage South Mumbai, the cool Marine Drive, the laid back Walkeshwar
and the posh Malabar Hill. The frequency is quite good and it the best way to
explore these areas but obviously no open air deck :D
3.
Heritage
Walk in South Mumbai
Heritage buildings in a row :)
Flora Fountain
As you can see, I am totally smitten by South Mumbai and its vast treasures
of heritage buildings each associated with an interesting story or anecdote and
each with exceptional architectural features. There is an abundance of gothic
style architecture with CST station as the prime example with its imposing,
regal yet distinctively gothic elements of pointed arches and overhanging eaves.
I spent quite a few afternoons exploring these rich architectural treasures
walking through the shady by lanes of South Mumbai, chit chatting with the
security guards who had their own masala to add to the original history. Weekends
or even better Sundays are the best days to explore this hypnotic concoction of
history, architecture, design, mystery, gossip and urban legends. So just set
off with a map on foot and delve into this heritage paradise. Don’t miss CST
station (obviously but just saying :P), GPO, David Sassoon library ,
Elphinstone college, Afghan Church, Flora Fountain, Asiatic society and
Rajabhai Tower. There are many more like
the Watson hotel, Dhanraj Mahal, Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue, Holy Name
Cathedral etc; the list goes on as long as your patience and interest lasts :D
You can again make use of public transport and take the Fort Ferry buses from
the CST station depot which are hop-on-hop-off fixed fare buses plying in a
circular route through the fort area or again take the 108 route number.
4.
Shopping
at Chor Bazaar
Chor Bazaar or Shor Bazaar?
Bewildering array of items
There are various theories and stories on how the “Shor Bazaar” (shor means
noisy) of yesteryears became the present day Chor Bazaar (chor means thief)
from the simple explanation that the British mispronounced Shor as Chor to the
more intriguing alleged recovery of Queen Victoria’s stolen violin. But
whatever be the case, be it stolen goods or second hand goods or genuine
antiques or knock offs, the bewildering assortment of goods sold here make it
the best flea market I have ever seen. As you traverse through the tightly
packed alleys spilling over with all sorts of odds and ends being sold here, it
might all come across as junk, but each and every piece has a story and a
history and its makes for interesting conversation. And of course it a paradise
for a vintage and junk hoarder like me and I had an amazing time rummaging
through the tiny but never ending stores selling anything and everything from
old mariner’s compasses to cuckoo clocks, furniture and decorative objects,
film memorabilia, and a baffling assortment of other goods. And of course goes
without saying, you have to put on your game face and bargain like a pro if you
intend to make a good buy here!
And while you are here, drop in at the 120 year old vintage ice-cream
parlour I wrote about here for some yummy handmade ice cream.
5.
Visit
the heritage village of Khotachiwadi
Near the community Church
Winding pathway to a different era
Mumbai is like a puff pastry with its multiple layers of history and
cultures fused to form one delectable dish to be savoured with the refined taste
of a true global connoisseur. Khotachiwadi is one such hidden layer of Mumbai
and tracing its fascinating history will; in a way give you the story of the
evolution of the city from a collection of small villages to the megacity that
it is today. This quaint hamlet close to Girgaum chowpatty was initially
inhabited by Portuguese Christians and eventually East Indian Christians (when the
Portuguese gave Bombay away to the British as part of a gift to Charles II of
England in the dowry of Catherine de Braganza, the sister of the Portuguese
King in 1661). It derives its name from Dadoba Waman Khot, a Pathare Prabhu
brahmin who developed it and “wadi”, which is a traditional name for plantation
or garden. The Portuguese influence is
unmistakable with the tiny lanes dotted with charming villas with airy
verandahs, wooden staircases and sloping red tiled roofs. There were 65 villas
originally of which only 28 have survived. The remaining have fallen prey to
redevelopment and given way to ugly high rises. The residents are fighting a
battle for conservation and protection of the remaining villas against the
builder mafia as well the municipal authorities. A visit to this place is akin
to slipping into another dimension where time has been suspended. The residents
are passionate about the history and the culture of the place and are a closely
knitted community and have developed this website
for keeping alive the dialogue on Khotachiwadi.
The nearest railway station is Charni Road station and Khotachiwadi is on
the lane opposite Mohan Building on Jagganath Shankar Seth Road.
6. Pay
your homage to Mahatma Gandhi at Mani Bhavan
Great words of a great man
Mani
Bhavan, on Laburnum Road was Mahatma Gandhi’s abode from 1917 to 1934 and has
witnessed many a campaign and protests like Non-Cooperation, Satyagraha,
Swadeshi, Khadi and Khilafat movements being initiated from there during
India’s fight for independence. The residence has now been converted into a
museum which highlights Gandhiji’s life through dioramas, documents, photos, books,
letters, short films and memorabilia. I was fortunate to be in Mumbai on 2nd
October (Gandhiji’s birth date) and made it a point to visit this iconic
building to pay my respects to the man whose ideals of Truth, Ahimsa,
Trusteeship and Constructive Action are as relevant today as they were then. There
were quite a few parents acquainting their kids to Gandhi and his ideologies. The
place also houses an exhaustive library on life of Gandhiji and the Gandhian
philosophy. Definitely worth a visit to rekindle faith in humanity!
7.
Evening
aarti at Banganga
The pole in the middle signifies the exact location the arrow was shot
City of contrasts
Banganga is a sacred ancient water tank surrounded by four hundred year old temples and
modern skyscrapers. Nowhere are Mumbai's paradoxes more evident than at
Banganga. It is one of the oldest surviving structures in Mumbai and
dates back to 1127 AD, to the time of the Silhara dynasty. Part of an ancient temple complex, the water in
this tank is believed to come from the Holy Ganges. It is said to have sprung
forth when Rama, the exiled hero of the epic Ramayana stopped at the spot five
thousand years ago, in search of his kidnapped wife Sita. Overcome with fatigue
and thirst, he asked his brother Laxman to bring him some water. Laxman
instantly shot an arrow into the ground, and water gushed forth from the ground,
creating a tributary of the Ganges, which flows over a thousand miles away. Hence
the name Bana (which means arrow in Sanskirt) Ganga. The atmosphere here
during the evening aarti time is surreal and soothing with the myriad temple
bells chimes creating an entrancing effect.
Banganga music festival which is a
classical music extravaganza, is organized by Maharashtra tourism in the month
of January every year where big wigs of Hindustani classical music perform at
the banks of this pious tank.
The best way to go here would be to take
the aforementioned 108 bus from CST bus depot.
8.
Explore
the quaint village of Ranwar in Bandra
Multiple Optics :P
Graffiti on chapel road
Bandra is synonymous with street shopping on linking road and hill road but
there is more to Bandra than that. Ranwar village is a sleepy quaint village
close to Hill Road which is kind of caught in a time warp. It was one of the 24
pakhadis of Bandra and was originally
a rice and vegetable producing village when the Portuguese gave these lands to Jesuit.
Here crumbling double storied Portuguese style cottages with Mangalorean tiles
rooftops recount and narrate of better times when the doors of these cottages
would remain open early morning till mid night, afternoon siestas were a way of
life and when the road was not a thoroughfare for traffic. But even with the rapid
development in Bandra, this pocket has remained oblivious and retained its
village character with a strong sense of community spirit much like Kotachiwadi.
A leisurely stroll through this neighborhood will transport you to a different
era. Also the graffiti all over this
village with its sharp wit and poignant messages will keep you entertained. End
your day with a sunset view of the Bandra Worli sealink from the Bandra fort
and then proceed to the bandstand for a quick round of bhel and kulfi to wrap
up a perfect day!
Best way to go there is to ask for Chapel Road or Waroda Road from Hill
Road.
9. Trace Mumbai’s history at Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum
The grand entrance
The majestic chandelier
If you are the kind of person who loves to spend an entire day in a museum
(high five btw J), then
Prince of Whales Museum will definitely be on your list but there is another
lesser known but equally fascinating museum called Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum. It
is Mumbai’s oldest museum and the third oldest in the country. It was the first
colonial building to be built for the specific purpose of housing a museum. The
display majorly consists of fine examples of the various handicrafts and
artwork that were being exported from India along with detailed descriptions on
the origins of the craft, the special skills of the artisans and the procedure
demonstrated through clay models. An entire floor is dedicated to the history
of Mumbai and its rich demographic versatility. I am super impressed with this
museum as the upkeep and the display of artifacts is impeccable and it is the
only museum I have seen where photography is allowed. The museum building has
been restored recently and I am in awe with the grand façade with the rich
Victorian interiors and especially the chandelier which was specially imported
from England. Must visit for a quick dive into the history of Mumbai.
The museum is in Byculla East and is walking distance from Byculla station.
They also conduct public tours where you can explore the museum with the curatorial
team every weekend.
Time: Saturday and Sunday
11:30 am English Tour
12:30 pm Hindi/Marathi Tour
10.
Go
bazaar hopping
Crawford market or Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai
Way to Mangaldas market
Bhuleshwar market, Zaveri bazaar, Mangaldas market, Dadar flower market, Crawford
market, Lalbaug market, Colaba Causeway, Tamba Kanta, Mirchi Gully, Linking
Road, Hill Road, Fashion Street and of course chor bazaar, Mumbai is bustling
with dozens of markets each specializing in its own wares. It is a shopper’s
paradise and a bargain buff’s dreamland. Mumbai being a port city and the
financial capital of India gets the latest and the best in everything; be it
clothes, gadgets, food, or even toys. Even the local trains have vendors
selling innovative life hacks like four in one pens and solar torches! I still
have and cherish my Rs.5 earrings I bought during college :D. Dadar foot over bridge
is the best place to find fancy knick knacks and long before world food stores
started flooding our markets, Crawford market had all the fancy exported
ingredients. And if you are looking for the latest Manish Malhotra or
Sabyasachi (rip-offs :P), then look no further than the tiny alleys of
Bhuleshwar market; all customized to your size and budget! ;) But my favourite
after chor bazaar has to be Mangaldas market (near Crawford market). Here reams
and reams of fabric in each and every latest material, print and texture is available
and is a fabric lover’s heaven. It is so rich in inspiration that you will be
bombarded with ideas the minute you step into this place (now if only I got a
tailor who could execute my ideas! :D). Even if you are not a serious buyer,
exploring these markets is always fun and there is no harm in indulging in some
window shopping!
11.
Hog
on street food
Much needed quenchers
Bombay Sandwich
Along with shopping, Mumbai is also a food lover’s paradise. Every gully,
every nukkad has some guy dishing out the most simple but tasty food. From the
humble vada pav to customized sandwiches, from crunchy bhel to spicy noodles,
from buttery pav bhaji to roasted peanuts, there is a humungous gastronomic
treasure waiting to be sampled. And why just food, there is a whole range of
quenchers ideal for Mumbai’s heat from fresh fruit juices to aam panna to kokam
juice to lassi. Of course there is no missing the famous golas (crushed ice
lolly) in every flavour possible, my favourite being rose. Of all the golas I
sampled, the best was from the stall at Girgaum Chowpatty. If its lassi on your
mind, then you must visit the hole in wall lassi shop in Dadar called Krishna
lassi for tasting the creamiest lassi and for witnessing the most unique service
system ever! And if its juice you are craving for then do not miss the sharbat
stall (Kala Khatta Cold Drinks House) opposite CST station beside Cannon pav
bhaji.
12.
Acknowledge
the cogs in the machinery that is Mumbai
The hero of Chor Bazaar
Aatmaram, the dabbawala
Yeah
that’s right; Mumbai is like a giant machine working at clockwork precision and
consistency; relentlessly and tirelessly. From the chai wala to the dabba wala
to the kulfi wala and the gola wala, it is the people of Mumbai that add soul
and character to this juggernaut. No wonder foreign tourists are drawn to Dhobi
Ghat and the dabba walas as they are fascinated by the people who keep the city
going. Their humility and contentment is as touching as their philosophy and
way of life. We really can pick up some life lessons from them. As Aatmaram, a
dabba wala I spoke with near Churchgate so simply put it, “I know only this and
I will continue to do this till my body cooperates, we will see later what
happens.” He had the calmest dispositions I had ever seen and we had a
wonderful conversation about life in general. Similarly my conversations with
the shopkeepers in chor bazaar, random people I spoke to on the streets when I
asked for directions, the interesting kitchen tips I picked in the local
trains; these conversations will always stay with me long after the sights and
the sounds of the city fade away. It is the people that make this city and the
best way to know this city is through the people of this city.
Check out my other posts on Mumbai:
Ode to Mumbai
2 Vintage Ice Cream Parlours in Mumbai
Check out my other posts on Mumbai:
Ode to Mumbai
2 Vintage Ice Cream Parlours in Mumbai
