Goa Eats

For us travel is synonymous with food. We love to try out the local cuisine and a lot of planning goes into what to eat and where to eat :D. Food just adds another dimension to the travel experience. We still fondly remember the good and the bad long after we are back from a trip. Goa being a sea food haven and a non-vegetarians paradise, we were skeptical of finding good vegetarian (eggetarian to be precise :P) food but we found some amazing places where not only was the food amazing but the ambiance with the generous dose of Goan culture added to the whole package.

1.       Hotel Venite

Amazing interiors at Venite 

(don't miss the light fixtures made of wine bottles on top right photo)

Lets dig in! :)

Shells encrusted doorway

Venite which means “come” in Latin is a quaint vintage restaurant in the Fontainhas area of Panjim (yeah the same area I have been raving about in my last two posts :P). It was first started in 1955 as a small inn with two rooms and a bar to cater to the Portuguese sailors. Housed in a 200 year old building with the wooden flooring from a Portuguese ship wreck, this place encompasses a slice of Goan history within its walls. I am sure my description of the place is going to turn into an essay of sorts, but I cannot help it, it really struck a chord with us. We were enchanted the minute we stepped through the shell encrusted entryway. The cute tiny verandahs jutting out to hold a table for two, wine labels from over the years stuck to the bar counter, vintage posters adorning the walls, there was so much vintage stuff there that it was like Disneyland for me! The highlight of the place is the graffiti on the walls, even the ceiling (when the partition of the inn rooms was taken apart, it went on the ceiling to preserve the graffiti) by the hippies during the 70s.  The travesty of their lives spelt out in the form of art give us a glimpse of their thinking and lifestyle.

                                 Of course I can go on and on about the ambiance and the beauty of the place but coming back to the main thing in any restaurant, food! Let me just say that it was beyond what we expected. The ice tea was one the best I had ever had and the starter of stir fried vegetables with a little dash Goan masala was the perfect way to start the meal. For the main course the host suggested a vegetarian palate which was perfect for us as we got to try Xacuti, Vindaloo and Portuguese style curry all in one palate. It was accompanied by garlic bread which had quite a generous dose of garlic (heaven! :P). They do not take credit/debit cards, so make sure you have cash on you otherwise you will be chaperoned to the nearest ATM by the friendly owner J.

Note – Payment by cash only.

2.       Fisherman’s Cove

Bar at Fisherman's Cove (next day during breakfast)

We passed this place for two nights consecutively and the live music and cheerful atmosphere finally lured us in on our last night in Goa.  There was a huge queue for getting the table when we walked in at 9.15 PM.  A cute local guy was at the helm of the affair dishing out all popular numbers from Honey Singh to Enrique. He was clearly the life of the place and everyone was having a such a good time listening to music, singing along, some even shaking a leg or two that no one was showing any signs of getting up. When we eventually got a table, we were pleasantly surprised to see quite a lot on offer for vegetarians on the menu.  The food was yummy and quite affordable (we ordered a paneer curry and rotis and some starter). We had expected the place to be expensive with a predominantly seafood menu and it totally proved to us to never judge a book by its cover. Yummy food, wallet still intact and foot tapping live music, it was a perfect ending to our last night in Goa J

Note – Go early, at least by 8.30 PM to secure a table and avoid waiting

          Good place to take your girl for a dinner ;)

3.       The Verandah Restaurant at Panjim Inn

 The quaint interiors of Panjim Inn

Another Fontainhas gem with so much history attached to it that you are transported to the halcyon days of yore the moment you step in into the sun kissed garden with the alfresco restaurant. The restaurant is part of a heritage hotel called Panjim Inn which is a restored colonial mansion belonging to the same family for over five generations. The original façade and the old world charm of the place have been retained through diligent restoration.  It also has two sister hotels called Panjim Pousada (one of the few hindu homes in Fontainhas) and the Panjim Peoples (originally a high school).  The restaurant is located on the first floor balcony of the Panjim Inn overlooking the garden and the Gitanjali Art Gallery beyond it. You can almost imagine handsome young fidalgos on the street below the balcaos, serenading comely damsels or almost hear the haunting lament of a Portuguese Fado emerge from the shadows of the evening (as beautifully said here). It is the perfect place to experience the warm Goan hospitality and soak up the vibe of ethnic Goa.

Note – Egg Curry is oh soooo good!

          English breakfast is served in the banquet hall of Panjim inn
Photos of Verandah Restaurant from here and here (my camera battery died :( )

4.       Baba’s Wood Café

That pizza was absolutely yumm :)

This cute café in the Fontainhas area (yeah I know!) of Panjim is the perfect place to have a nice meal after sweating it out exploring the vintage area. Situated in a quaint by-lane opposite Maruti Temple, this restaurant carries forward the unique Goan amalgamation of cultures by serving authentic Italian food amidst paintings and art by local artists.  We ordered a ravioli and a pizza and both were delicious. The subtle and creamy ravioli and the light and crispy pizza revived us, making us look forward to other meals in Goa (this was our first meal in Goa J). The restaurant is attached to a boutique which has interesting baroque style furniture and chandeliers along with home décor items, clothes, jewellery and other assorted things. All of it was very pretty but awfully expensive but what’s the harm in window shopping!

5.       Guanaja Chocolate Café

Mouthwatering display at Guanaja

Our fist pit stop on the Goa culinary journey, Guanaja continued to be that; a pit stop; for the rest of our trip. It was conveniently located just opposite our homestay and we kept dropping in for odd time hunger pangs. In fact we found our home stay thanks to Santosh who mans Guanaja single-handedly most of the time. After a spontaneous decision to head to Goa over a long weekend, we found ourselves on a non-descript by-lane in Candolim trying to find some decent stay. We decided to have breakfast at the café to take time to contemplate when Santosh nonchalantly mentioned that the house opposite accepts paying guests. We were quick to act and scored the best accommodation we could have asked for (two minutes from the beach, not exaggerating!). Anyway coming back to Guanaja, it is a cozy café made entirely out of wood with cute lounge chairs in cane and comfy indoor and outdoor seating. It serves sandwiches (definitely try the multi grain sandwich), chocolates, pastries and other baked goods as well as coffee and juices. Nice place to chill out after frolicking in the beach.
Photos of Guanaja from here (we were always rushing in and out of this place, it never struck me to click a pic here)

6.       Curlies

 View from mezzanine floor at Curlies

We are quite proud of the fact that we did not touch a drop of alcohol during our entire Goa trip. Goa is synonymous with cheap booze and people usually get tempted to give it a try at least. We did not have to as we were hooked to a class of beverages we usually make faces at, fruit juices! The fruit juices in Curlies were heavenly and we lost count of the number of glasses we kept on ordering sitting at the mezzanine floor with low seating overlooking Anjuna Beach. The mango season was in full swing and the tall cold glass of mango juice was aamasutra for sure! The food was nothing to go gaga about although the mushroom cheese omelet was quite good. But if you are anywhere near Anjuna beach, I would recommend a swig of the mango juice or pomegranate juice. You could get a foot/back massage while lounging there or try your hand at canoeing or paragliding. And the best part of the place is a small shopping haven right inside Curlies called Happinez, a small boutique having a collection of beachwear and cute t shirts with interesting graphics. Go loaded with cash here as you will regret not picking up more stuff later!

Note – Curlies takes payment by card but Happinez takes cash only and the nearest ATM is a 10 min drive, so have some cash on for shopping!

Check out the couple's beachwear

Quick recommendation on where to stay in Goa – Boa Vista Homestay

A cute two floor independent house in which the family stays in the ground floor and rents out four rooms on the first floor. Three of them are AC and one is non-AC. They are spacious, airy with plenty of natural light through huge French windows. They are immaculately maintained with daily cleaning by the staff. The rooms are accessible through a staircase adjoining the house, so you can come and go as you please without disturbing the family. And the best part of the place is that it soooo close to Candolim beach (just 100 mts). Moreover Stanley and his wife are warm and friendly people who will suggest places of interest, help you out with itineraries and make your stay comfortable. We felt that homestays are the best way to explore Goa as you will gain a different perspective by interacting with the locals and save loads of bucks by avoiding staying in the commercial resorts. And if it is so close to the beach then why not!
For enquiries email Stanley at stanley_fer@yahoo.com

Off-beat Goa

There is so much to see other than the beaches

1.       Fontainhas and Mala

The only Latin quarters in Asia, this area will transport you to a bygone era with its Mediterranean appearance, narrow streets and overhanging balconies of the ancient Portuguese style houses.  The entire area is laid out at the base of a hillside known as Altinho and the natural springs on the hillside gave the name Fontainhas to the area. While Mala, an adjoining ward is a predominantly Hindu area with a beautiful Maruti Temple. The old world charm of the pretty old homes, smiling grannies and vintage cars makes for a pleasant stroll and a photographer’s delight. We felt drawn to this neighborhood and found ourselves there on all the days we were in Goa. Every time you walk through this area, you will find another hidden gem, another beautiful house or a small balcony or a unique name plate or some other cute detail worth going through the neighborhood again.

                  The area is quite close to Panjim bus stand. Go up to Maruti temple in Mala on your vehicle and park your vehicle there and walk around the neighborhood covering Panjim Inn, Panjim Pousada and Gitanjali art gallery, Velha Goa Galeria (good place for souvenirs),  Saint Sebastian Chapel, Ourem Creek, Sao Tome Chapel at the Tobacco Square, Mint House - Casa de Moeda and the ‘Fundacao Oriente' a center for cultural learning. Alternatively you can go for a heritage walk conducted by GHAG (Goa Heritage Action Group). Contact ajit_sukhija@yahoo.com/ghaggoa@gmail.com.

 Houses in every hue and color in Fontainhas area

The run down houses have a character of their own :)

2.       Goa Chitra

Goa Chitra is a tribute by its founders to his ancestors and to their way to life using age old wisdom passed through generations. It is an ethnographic museum housing a unique collection depicting the material culture of Goa before the electricity era. It is a project to promote awareness and appreciation of the traditional agrarian lifestyle, of the eco-friendly techniques that were practiced. There are various sections displaying the traditional tools and implements used by farmers, carpenters, black smiths, gold smiths, stone masons etc. It also has a separate section on kitchen implements, food storage and various old measures and scales. Highlights of the place are a 16 foot coconut oil extraction apparatus and a section on ancient mode of transports with old carts and buggies from all over the country on display. It is a brilliant effort by a single person to conserve the heritage of his region and also spread awareness about it. You can read more about the founder and his vision on the official website.

                                  The museum is in Benaulim (near Margaon) and marked on google maps. It is quite a drive from Panjim, but the drive through the beautiful countryside is an added bonus! Interesting fact about Benoulim is that the place derives its name from Banavalli (which means sequence of arrows in Sanskrit) or Banahalli (Bana is arrow in Sanskir and halli is village in Kannada). It is supposed to be the place where the arrow fell when Parashurama shot an arrow into the sea to reclaim land and that’s how Goa or Gomanta or Gomantaka or Gorashtra or Govapuri was created. The mythological tale of creation of Goa is an interesting read. 

 Traditional oil mill on display

Old weights and measures

Vintage horse cart on display

 Pickle jaadis (jars)

3.       Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary on Chorao Island

The bird sanctuary is along river Mandovi and mangrove swamps cover this bird-watchers' paradise aptly named after India's best-known ornithologist. I have read great reviews about the same and had added it to my agenda but as I mentioned before you absolutely cannot stick to an itinerary while in Goa. You too can add it to your radar if you are interested in a guided canoe trip through the Mandovi River and sight some rare and stunning birds.

                                 We had contacted a guide too but could not tear ourselves from the beach during this trip. You will have to report to the sanctuary early in the morning around 6 AM for best sightings. You can contact Mr. Uday and book a day in advance: +91-9822583127 or +91-9545062069. He will guide you on how to reach the sanctuary.

4.       Braganza Mansion in Chandor

The Braganza house is a sprawling mansion located at Chandor, 13 kilometres from Margao, in Southern Goa. Built in the 17th century, the Braganza mansion was the home of Luis De Menezes Braganza, the champion of Goa's freedom. This house is replete with elaborately ornate and antique furniture and curios garnered by the inhabitants of the household over time. There is also a chapel, ballrooms, dining halls and several other utility rooms which are a statement on the flamboyant lifestyle of the past and it is the only mansion with a private library with a large collection of books to boast.

                                 This too was on the agenda this trip but we could not make it because of the distance. We will include this when we travel next time for a South Goa exclusive trip J. There are quite a few heritage homes in South Goa which are definitely worth visiting and go in my bucket list straightaway.

 The lush green countryside

Local football match

 There are a lot many places to explore in Goa other than the beaches. Just zipping through rural Goa itself is a delight. The lush green countryside with the typical quaint Goan houses creates picture perfect eye candy. And the occasional abandoned Portuguese style villa transports us to a different era as our mind conjures up its former glory. Football is the more popular sport and you will come across quite a few local matches being played albeit with all the seriousness and passion and loyalty for the game and the team. Just join in with the cheering crowd and you are guaranteed a good time J. People in Goa are warm and friendly and very forthcoming with help and information. It was heartening to see a tender coconut vendor lady reply back to our question in Hindi in crisply enunciated English. I can never forget the glee on her face when we were a bit taken aback by her casual yet every bit correct English…That’s Goa for you, surprising you always with its many facets J

Goa

Fisherman's Cove, Candolim

Goa, the land of sun, sand and sea…the land of parties and wild nights…the land of hippies and freaks…but also the land of centuries old houses, lush green paddy fields interspersed with cute Portuguese style villas, abandoned crumbling mansions, the calm back waters of river Mandovi, glistening white churches and gleaming colorful temples too. There is much more to Goa than just the beaches. From being a Portuguese colony to its liberation in 1961 and merger with India, through the hippie trail of the 60s and the 70s followed by large influx of tourists, Goa has seen it all and people go there I suppose to see it all or do it all rather. In a more or less conservative country, Goa is a different world all together where people come to unleash their wild side. Even after being a city bred and a second time visitor to Goa, there were many times during the trip when I got a culture shock. But all that is just one dimension of Goa. It has several layers and you just have to see beyond the skimpy clothes and the cheap liquor and the Titos and LPK. It is true that Goa is a state of mind; it lets us be ourselves and do whatever we want. The Goan philosophy of life;  as described by the Portuguese origin word Susegad which means taking life at a relaxed contented pace and enjoying it to the fullest; resonates well with our inner “Hippie”. Even the most organized traveler with a long list of places to see and things to do will lose track driving through the picturesque quaint villages and taking afternoon siestas on beach-side shacks. Goa is a place best explored unhurried and without an agenda so that every time you visit you discover another layer of this unique state.

Fontainhas area in Panjim

Vintage graffiti by hippies in hotel Venite

The last time I went to Goa was around six years back when I was still in college.  It was my first college trip and Goa promised a peek into a world so different from ours. So in true filmy style we travelled from Bombay to Goa looking forward to explore and experience the Ibiza of the east. We did water sports in Calangute beach, played volleyball on Baga beach, ate at shacks, and diligently visited the Dil Chahta hai forts. In a bid to be adventurous, we even went to a shady party at a shady place I don’t remember and also made the long trip from Calangute to Arambole beach chasing the hippie trail. The colorful Goan houses in all hues of the rainbow from purple to parrot green evoked jokes and the abandoned dilapidated houses puzzled us. I guess that was Goa level one. This time around, the same colorful houses and dilapidated buildings charmed us and we spent most afternoons driving through interior Goa checking out the Portuguese style houses and exploring quaint by lanes with grand mansions with beautiful facades. I can spend an entire holiday walking through these lanes, marveling at their glory and discovering their secrets by chatting with the locals. But I had to strike a balance between my love for all things vintage and architecture and design and Puneeth’s love for the sea and adventure. So when we were not walking through the winding alleys of Fontainhas, we were frolicking in the sea at any and every beach we found, having long lunches and even longer dinners, taking cat naps in shacks along with some beach reading thrown in for good measure J

"Goa a daughter's story" is a good read to gain a deeper insight of Goa and more importantly it dispels lot of stereotypical notions about Goa and Goan culture. The author narrates the history of Goa as reminisced by her family and friends without making it boring. As she delicately peels different layers of the Goan society and history, we understand why and how Goa came to be as it is now...Definitely recommend it :)

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